As Yerevan prepares to host COP17 of the UN Convention on Biological Diversity, footage from the shore of Lake Sevan shows a different reality: scraps of fishing nets and plastic litter have piled up on the rocky bank, stones are coated in algae, and debris is tangled in the reed beds along the water. This is the lake Armenia presents as one of its chief natural treasures.

The paradox is plain: the country is hosting one of the world’s largest biodiversity forums, while the shore of its own lake bears traces of litter and neglect. For international guests, the condition of Sevan’s shore will be more persuasive than any speech.

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